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WILLIAM H. RAU 

PHILADELPHIA 

1389 



Descriptive Reading 



ON 



PHILADELPHIA 



EDMUND STIRLING 



ILLUSTRATED BY FIFTY LANTERN 
SLIDES 



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WILLIAM H. RAU 

PHILADELPHIA 
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Copyright, 1890, by William H. Ran. 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



1. Old Swedes' Church. 

2. First Gubernatorial Mansion. 

3. Christ Church. 

4. Franklin. 

5. Carpenters' Hall. 

6. The State-House. 

7. Interior of this Building. 

8. The Old Liberty Bell. 

9. Landmark of the Kevolution. 

10. The Old Zion Lutheran Church. 

11. The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul 

12. The Synagogue, Kodef Shalom. 

13. The Girls' Normal School. 

14. The University of Pennsylvania. 

15. The First Library in America. 

16. Kidgway Library. 

17. The Same Old Office. 

18. A Marble Palace, a Greek Temple. 

19. The Academy of Fine Arts. 

20. American Academy of Music. 

21. Oldest Theater in America. 

22. The Temple. 

23. Union League. 

24. First Eegiment, National Guard. 

25. Post-office. 

26. The Mint. 

27. The Custom-House. 

28. Old Merchants' Exchange. 

29. Point Breeze. 

(175) 



76 ILLUSTRATIONS. 

30. Tlie Ship-yards of the Win. Cramp & Son's Ship and Engine 

Building Company. 

31. The Drexel Building. 

32. The Public Ledger. 

33. Office in the Ledger Building. 

34. Chestnut Street. 

35. Market Street. 

36. Broad Street. 

37. Municipal Buildings. 

38. The Lafayette. 

39. Broad Street Station. 

40. " New York and Chicogo Limited." 
4L The German Hospital. 

42. The Eastern Penitentiary. 

43. The Water- Works. 

44. Pumping-Station. 

45. Girard Avenue. 

46. Zoological Garden. 

47. The Lion. 

48. Mansion known as Solitude. 

49. The Wissahickon. 

50. " Over Kocky Beds, under Green Boughs." 



PHILADELPHIA 



Nearly a quarter of a century before William Penn was 
born the idea of the foundation of a city of brotherly love was 
striving for utterance in the mind of Sweden's great king, 
Gustavus Adolphus ; and, strange to say, the very tract of land 
which the illustrious Quaker determined upon for his colony 
was selected as a site. But Gustavus died before his idea took 
shape, and the terror of the Thirty Years' AYar absorbed all 
the interest of Continental Europe. Still, the little Swedish 
colony did not die out, but grew, and in a measure flourished, 
but could not rise to the dignity of a state. 

Traces of this little colony still remain. The lover of the 
old landmarks, who directs his steps to the district in the 
lower part of Philadelphia known as South wark, will find, 
hemmed in with shipping and junk-shops and noisy ware- 
houses and machine-shops, a quaint, old-fashioned little church 
still bearing the name of the 

I. Old Swedes' Church. — But the scene then was a dif- 
ferent one when the worshipers flocked to their little shrine. 
The majestic Delaware flowed by green meadows and gently 
sloping hills ; and stately forests of beech-trees stood around 
like guardian spirits. The march of improvement has dwarfed 
the once noble forest, and nothing of its grandeur remains but 
the churchyard, the little church-spire pointing heavenward 
among the trees, a mute symbol of the faith and worship of 
the pioneers of the commonwealth. Many an antiquated 
tombstone tells of the Petersens and the Andersons, who were 
a living power in their own little circle of thought and activity. 

(177) 



178 PHILADELPHIA. 

Here, among others, rests Alexander Wilson, the ornithol- 
ogist, whose ruling passion, strong in death, made him desire 
to sleep in this silent, shady place, where the birds might sing 
upon his grave. 

Such was the place when Penn landed. He, too, like the 
great Swede, sought to found a colony for freedom of relig- 
ious thought. His city, too, was the product of a definite 
plan, a forethought purpose. It seemed as if Providence 
willed that the noble idea of Gustavus should not die 
but should receive its full embodiment through another 
people. The Philadelphia colony was popular from the very 
start, and a friendly interest sprang up between the original 
settlers and the newcomers. Before the second year six hun- 
dred houses stood complete, many of them of stone, with 
pointed roofs, balconies and porches. The governor, with just 
pride, wrote to England : " With the help of God and ray 
noble friends, I will show a province in seven years equal to 
any of her neighbors at forty," 

Penn had given orders that his own house should be pitched 
in the middle of the town, facing the harbor. 

2. This First Gubernatorial Mansion stood, just before 
the incoming of the Centennial, surrounded by the menacing 
warehouses and factories, which seemed eager to devour it, in 
their greed for traffic and wealth. Like one whose glory had 
departed, it stood amongst strangers, bereft of its netting of 
orchards and trellises of vines. But, thanks to the generous 
spirit of one of Philadelpliia's benevolent citizens, it was not 
suffered to be wholly demolished, like so many time-honored 
landmarks which are so fast disappearing ; a portion of it 
was carefully removed to Fairmount Park, where it is once 
more in sylvan surroundings. Although William Penn was 
liberal-minded enough to have his city free to all honest and 
sober men, yet he naturally wished it to be governed accord- 



PHILADELPHIA. 179 

ing to Quaker ideas and principles ; but the pressure of emi- 
gration and the popularity of the city brought many that 
were attached to the doctrine of the Church of England, and 
they too naturally desired to build a house to worship 
according to their way of thinking. As early as 1695 the 
Cliurchmen in the colony had what they called "a very fine 
church," which is believed to have been of brick, and seated 
five hundred people. As they grew in strength this little 
building became too small to accommodate their increase, and 
an order was sent to England for 30,000 bricks ; and a stately 
structure was begun and gradually pushed to completion. 

3. Christ Church, as it is called, was begun in 1727, 
before Independence Hall, and finished in 1744, the steeple 
being added ten years later. The chime of eight bells 
was brought from England by a Captain Budden, who 
charged no freight on them ; and thereafter, whenever Captain 
Budden 's ship came into port, the bells rang a merry peal. 
This chime marked many an epoch in the history of the col- 
ony and of its struggle for independence. Bells were re- 
garded in those days as the fair spoil of a conquering army, 
to be used in the casting of cannon, so that in 1778, when the 
occupation of the city by the British was imminent, the chimes 
were taken down and removed to Allentown. They were 
replaced after the evacuation of Philadelphia by the British 
troops. Many memories cluster about the edifice. Here 
Washington w^orshiped when President of the United States. 
Here lie Robert Morris and many distinguished men and 
women of the first republican court. 

4. Franklin. — In the churchyard, which is several squares 
from the building, lie the bodies of Franklin and his wife be- 
neath the plain marble slab bearing the simple inscription, 
"Benjamin and Deborah Franklin, 1790." The tomb is at 



180 PHILADELPHIA. 

the northwest corner of the burial-ground, at the corner of 
Fifth and Arch Streets ; and about twenty years ago the vestry 
of Christ Church replaced the brick wall by an open iron 
railing, so that it can be seen and the inscription read by 
passers-by on Arch Street. Though in so humble a resting- 
place, this is the man at whose death not only America but 
the friends of liberty throughout the world hastened to do 
honor, and of whom Mirabeau said, in announcing his death 
to the French National Assembly : " He was the sage whom 
two worlds claim, the man whom the history of empires and 
the history of science alike contend for." 

The name of Franklin recalls Philadelphia's share in Colo- 
nial and Revolutionary history. It was in Philadelphia that 
the first Continental Congress assembled, September 4, 1774 ; 
and, fortunately, the very building in which the delegates met 
to deliberate upon the momentous question is still preserved — 

5. Carpenters' Hall, the very temple of freedom. This 
venerable building, so hallowed by its uses in connection with 
the history of the country, was completed in 1771, and is the 
property of the oldest trade organization in Philadelphia, the 
Carpenters' Company, Avhich dates from 1724. 

The principles which the Quaker founder of the city incor- 
porated into his government were just such as prepared the 
minds of the citizens for the doctrines of the Declaration of 
Independence. " Obedience without liberty is slavery," said 
Penn. What place, therefore, could be more fit for the very 
forging of the armor for liberty ? Let us look for a moment at 

6. The State- House, a building, as you see, bearing 
evidence of the liberality and public spirit of the times in 
which it was built. 

Its style was the architecture of the Augustan ages of Eng- 
land, and was accounted most beautiful, with its solid brick 



PHILADELPHIA. 181 

walls with marble trimmings, its urns, arched doorways 
with projecting keystones, and heavy wainscoting. From an 
historical point of view, it may be of interest to know that the 
State-House was erected under the supervision of, and upon 
plans presented by, Alexander Hamilton, Speaker of the 
House of Kepresentatives of the Assembly of the Province, 
between 1732 and 1747, the tower and Avings being built at a 
considerably later date. 

AYe are told that it was a place of gathering for the elite 
of Philadelphia. The " upper ten " was wont to congregate 
in its spacious vestibules and corridors, or to promenade in 
the winding walks of its beautifully laid out garden. But it 
is the 

7. Interior of this Building which is more sacred to 
the heart of every American. Lst us look at that hall where 
words were uttered which shook the world. It has been 
restored, as much as possible, to the condition it was in at 
the time the second Congress met, when the Declaration of 
Independence was signed. There are the chairs on which they 
sat ; there is the very table upon which the second Magna 
Charta was laid ; and in imagination we can see them as they 
boldly step forward to affix their names to that document 
which was to them either the passport to liberty or the war- 
rant of death. 

Uj^on the walls are the portraits of the projenitors of our 
freedom, that faithful band of signers who pledged their lives, 
their fortunes and their sacred honor to the maintenance of 
the principle that all men are born free and equal. In the 
adjoining room (the museum) may be found many a relic of 
those times, but we can only linger now before one which is 
suspended in the hall under the steeple. This is the object 
of highest interest to every visitor, — 



182 PHILADELPHFA. 

8. The Old Liberty Bell, which emphasized with its 
vibrations the glorious words of Independence, as they were 
uttered by John Nixon from the State-House steps. 

Like the people whose sentiments it so loudly and clearly 
uttered to the world, the old bell, now silent, must needs pass 
tlirough the fiery trial ere its voice could sound forth the 
words which awakened the new spirit of the world, — freedom. 
It was brought over in 1752, but on its trial it was cracked 
by a blow from the clapper, being too brittle. It was recast 
twice in the land of freedom, and here imbibed the air of 
liberty. The old bell shared in the exile of the city's chimes 
at the time of the British occupation, but was restored to its 
position in 1778. A new bell took its place in 1828 ; but the 
old Liberty Bell, with its prophetic inscription, became a ven- 
erated object, and was only rung on occasions of public im- 
portance. It was cracked July 8, 1835, while tolling the 
knell of Chief Justice Marshall, and was silenced finally, by 
the spreading of the break, on Washington's Birthday, 1843. 
Let us pass to another 

g. Landmark of the Revolution.— On the principal 
street of Germantown (now a portion of the city) stands, 
some distance back from the road, a venerable-looking house, 
built several years before the Revolution by Benjamin Chew, 
Chief Justice of Pennsylvania. The house was the scene of an 
event in the Battle of Germantown, on the fourth of October, 
1777. On the main street of Germantown was stationed the 
line of the British. General Sullivan, of the American Army, 
made what he thought to be a ftivorable attack on the British 
pickets ; but he merely forced them onto the main division, 
which, finding itself closely pressed, retreated to the old Chew 
mansion. A surrender w^as demanded, but the answer was a 
volley of musketry from the windows of the house. Our 
feeble American cannon were unable to make an i!n])ression 



PHILADELPHIA. 183 

upon the solid walls of the house ; and, as the destructive fire 
kept pouring from the windows, the Americans were compelled 
to retire. The noise of the battle reached the ears of Corn- 
wallis at Philadelphia, and a march was made for the relief 
of the British. Washington, seeing that the day was against 
him, retreated in time to save his troops from Cornwallis. The 
curious visitor may still see the cannon-balls embedded in the 
walls of the house. 

The early Philadelphians, who flocked to the colony after 
Penn made it so popular, were content to live at first in a 
rather humble way. Some, who no doubt had been accustomed 
to luxury in the old country, were satisfied to live for a while 
in rude huts, and even in caves. But the rude dwellings soon 
gave place to more pretentious buildings. With increase of 
worldly prosperity, our ancestors began to look for more 
stately edifices wherein to worship God, the author of their 
temporal blessings. 

Let us glance at but one of these old-time temples, which 
also carries with it memories of Revolutionary times. 

10. The Old Zion Lutheran Church, now no more, 
which formerly stood at Fourth and Cherry Streets, calls back 
the olden days. One incident connected with this church is 
worthy of remembrance. It was within its walls, on the twenty- 
second day of February, 1800, that the first Washington 
Birthday was celebrated. A procession marched into its 
spacious aisles and listened to an oration delivered in honor 
of the Father of his Country. The character of the churches 
is said to be an indication of the social condition of the people. 
We expect to find beautiful architecture amongst an art- 
loving people ; and the finest examples will be found, not in the 
public buildings, but in the houses dedicated to the service 
of God. 



II. The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, 



on 



184 PHILADELPHIA. 

Logan Square, whose construction cost over a million dollars, 
is very imposing in its architecture. It is in the Roman- 
Corinthian style, adorned with frescoes representing the Na- 
tivity, the Adoration of the Magi, the Crucifixion and the 
Assumption. There are also figures of the Apostles and Evan- 
gelists. The edifice was dedicated November 20, 1864, and at 
that time and for a long time afterward was considered one of 
the most, if not the most, imposing sacred buildings in the 
United States. For many years it was somewhat bare of interior 
decoration ; but the present Archbishop has given the matter 
much attention, and among the additions which have been 
made are a stately high altar of white marble, and several 
beautiful side altars, in the niches reserved for them in the 
aisles. 

We may turn from this temple to that of another and more 
ancient faith — that to which all Christians look with reverence 
as the origin and root of their own — and contemplate the 
Eastern grandeur of 

12. The Synagogue, Rodef Shalom. — It is constructed 
of light sandstone, decorated with stone of other colors, in the 
Saracenic style of architecture; and the tower, which stands at 
the corner of Broad and Mount Vernon Streets, is 125 feet 
high. Just below, oddly contrasted with the other, rises the 
Gothic spire of the North Broad Street Presbyterian Church, 
and beyond is the observatory of the Boys' Central High 
School. 

Philadelphia is justly proud of her free schools. Their his- 
tory dates from the beginning of the century, and their record 
has been one of steady progress, until now the schools number 
nearly five hundred, the pupils over one hundred thousand, and 
the teachers over twenty-four hundred. While the High 
School is in the true sense a training college for teachers, its 
graduates, as a rule, adopt the other ])rofessions, and it is to 



PHILADELPHIA. 185 

13. The Girls' Normal School that the city looks for its 
force of teachers. 

This building is a much more modern structure than 
the boys' school. It is of green stone, with facings of sand- 
stone, and presents a fine appearance from the opposite 
side of the broad avenue (Spring Garden Street) in which Ic 
stands. In addition to its work of preparing young women 
for the work of teaching, it embodies in its course the studies 
of a high school. The present building has long outgrown 
the demands upon its space, about fourteen hundred pupils 
being accommodated within its walls. 

Though not a part of its regular public school system, 

14. The University of Pennsylvania is the crowning 
glory of Philadelphia's educational work. This venerable 
institution dates back to 1749, from an academy and charity 
school founded by Benjamin Franklin, as he expressed it, 
" upon which posterity would erect a seminary more extensive 
and suitable to future circumstances." Twenty-four well- 
known citizens were the trustees, and in a few months two 
thousand pounds sterling were subscribed. Its success was as- 
sured from the first ; students came from different cities, and 
the school was incorporated in 1755. Dr. William Shippen, 
who had privately been instructing pupils in anatomy as early 
as 1762, suggested the medical department, which is the oldest 
and, perhaps, the most famous in the United States ; and the 
law department began in 1790. The University has outgrown 
its location three times. At first it stood at Fourth and Arch 
Streets ; in 1800 it removed to Ninth and Chestnut Streets. 
The purchase, by the Government, of the ground for a post- 
office obliged its removal again. Now we have the cluster of 
beautiful buildings, of serpentine and sandstone, the central 
pile having been formally opened June 4, 1874. A magnifi- 
cent hospital — a fitting adjunct to the medical schools — and a 



186 PHILADELPHIA. 

noble public library are among the auxiliary buildings be- 
longing to the University. 

Benjamin Franklin was not only closely identified with the 
inception of the University, but was the founder of another 
great educational iustitution, — 

15. The First Library in America. — The idea of a pub= 
lie library came to him in this wise : He was the president of a 
sort of social-science club of Philadelphia, called the " Junto 
Club." Each of the members owned books, which of course 
were borrowed by the others. Franklin suggested the plan 
of putting them all together to constitute a club library: the 
idea was adopted, and out of this begin uing in 1781 grew 
the great Philadelphia Library. 

The present building on Locust Street, to which the library 
was removed in 1880, is an architectural copy of the old 
structure on Fifth Street (on a part of the site now occupied 
by the Drexel building), which had been the home of the 
company for nearly a century. 

16. Ridgway Library. — lu the year 1869 the Phila- 
delphia Library Company was tendered the extraordinary 
bequest of one million dollars by the will of Dr. James 
Rush. There were certain instructions in the will which led 
to much reluctance on the part of the venerable corporation 
to accept the gift, and it was not until 1878 that the stock- 
holders took that action. In the mean time Dr. Rush's execu- 
tors had proceeded with the erection of the massive granite 
building at Broad and Christian Streets, which was conveyed 
to the company May 6th, 1878, as the Ridgway Branch of 
the Philadelphia Library. 

It is calculated to contain 400,000 volumes, and has a 
frontage of 220 feet and a depth of 105 feet. 

There is another name which will always be associated 



PHILADELPHIA. 187 

with Philadelphia, — that of Stephen Girard, the merchant 
prince. What Franklin did for its intellectual growth was 
nobly supplemented by Girard's contribution to the material 
development of the city and its commerce. Girard was a 
man of sterling merit, generous when distress appealed to 
him, and even noble and self-sacrificing when suffering came 
to his notice. Yet there was nothing sentimental about him. 
Day after day he came to his office, 

17. The Same Old Office which we now picture to you. 
Year after year he worked and toiled, until his fortune became 
colossal for that day. In everything he was governed by the 
principle that work was worth so much, and represented a 
certain value. His clerks and his servants received a just 
compensation and nothing more. He was said to be selfish 
and " close," but in no way could a man more conscien- 
tiously have shown true nobility of character than he did by 
his services in the City Hospital during the plague of 1793. 
An historian of the city says : " All the world knows of the 
great institution which bears his name, and which he estab- 
lished for the education of the poor ; but few know that he 
took in hand Bush Hill Hospital, in the midst of its unlimited 
disorder and filth, and day by day traveled to it on foot and 
waited upon its inmates, serving in every office, even the 
lowest and most loathsome." This, too, was at a time when 
clergymen and physicians had forsaken their charges and fled 
the city. 

In all likelihood, had Girard seen fit to establish the orphan 
school before his death, we may be assured he would have 
provided the plain, comfortable home which his will sets 
fortti ; but the trustees have built 

18. A Marble Palace, a Greek Temple, supported by 
thirty-four grand pillars, each of which cost thirteen thousand 



186 PHILADELPHIA. 

dollars. But who regrets the outlay ? The design of the 
main building is of the richest Corinthian style. The super- 
structure rests upon a base consisting of eleven steps, extend- 
ing around the whole edifice. The exterior of the cella, or 
body of the building, is 111 feet wide and 169 feet long. The 
columns supjDort a portico with architraves 21 feet wide, and 
are 50 feet high and 6 feet in diameter. It is arched through- 
out with marble, and the roof and floor are mosaic marble. 
The weight of the roof is said to be 970 tons. The great 
doors in front are 16 feet wide and 32 feet high. In the 
south vestibule, in a sarcophagus, rest the ashes of Stephen 
Girard, surmounted by a marble statue, said to be an excel- 
lent likeness. This beautiful temple now merely forms the 
central structure, around which a dozen or more buildings are 
clustered. The course of study is of a practical character, 
including manual training ; and there is provision for upwards 
of fourteen hundred pupils. The college regularly began its 
work in 1848. 

We have seen how science and learning have been honored 
in the various institutions in Philadelphia. We shall now 
glance at a few of the places where the Muses have found 
favor. 

ig. The Academy of Fine Arts will bear compar- 
ison with any institution of the kind in the country, not only 
as to its habitation but with respect to its history. Since 
1805 it has labored to cultivate the fine arts here, and the 
artists who are proud to claim it as their alma mater are in 
themselves the best evidences of the work it has done. The 
building is a fine specimen of the Byzantine style of architect- 
ure, having been erected in 1872, and stands on Broad Street 
a square north of the City Hall. It is of ornamental brick, 
terra-cotta and stone work, and a striking feature of the 
front fayade is a colossal marble statue of the goddess Ceres, 



PHILADELPHIA. 189 

dug up at Megara, Greece, and presented to the Academy by 
Commodore Patterson. The galleries are commodious and 
well appointed, and within the building the art schools have 
every facility. These are conducted upon a broad and liberal 
principle, all the advantages of the Academy being given 
gratuitously to pupils showing artistic capacity. Through 
the munificence of the late Joseph E. Temple, a patron of 
the fine arts, the Academy is open on certain days free to the 
public; and the corporation controls a fund with which it is 
enabled to purchase works of art shown at the annual exhibi- 
tions to enrich the already fine permanent collection. 

From the house devoted to the muse of painting let us go 
to that of music. We are told that the great singers regard 
it a great luxury to sing in the 

20. America-n Academy of Music, this fine building 
being a triuraj)h of acoustic construction. It is not very 
imposing from without, being of brick, with brown-stone trim- 
mings; but it surpasses any other opera house in the country 
for its chaste interior decoration, as well as the wealth of its 
stage property. The auditorium seats 2900 persons comfort- 
ably, and has standing-room, occasionally utilized, for 600 
more. 

It may be interesting to know that the first opera in the Acad- 
emy was in 1857, in which Gazzaniga sang in "II Trovatore." 
The Prince of Wales, during his visit to this country, graced 
the Academy with his presence, and was received by an im- 
mense throng of people. Many a gifted man of Europe and 
our own land has poured forth words of eloquence and truth 
from the spacious stage, it being used as much as a lecture- 
hall as for musical and dramatic purposes. The huge cary- 
atides which support the arched pediments over the proce- 
nium boxes have also been the silent witnesses of many a great 
gathering relating to the social, political and religious life of 
the people. 



190 PHILADELPHIA. 

For a Quaker city, Philadelphia can claim a steady patron- 
age of the dramatic muse from a very early date, having 
what is believed to be the 

21. Oldest Theater in America. — As early as 1749 a 
piece entitled " Fair Pembert," by Nicholas Rowe, was put 
upon the boards and received with much favor. It was pre- 
sented in a large room over a storehouse. The first actual 
theater did not go up until 1759. The mimic stage, of course, 
met with some very positive opposition, and even bills were 
gotten up in the Pennsylvania Legislature for the suppression 
of theatrical performances; but Robert Morris, Gen. Wayne 
and other liberal-minded men carried the day with their ar- 
guments, and the theater continued to flourish. The Walnut, 
of which a view is shown, is famous from the fact that here 
Edwin Forrest made his first appearance as Young Norval, 
in 1820, at the age of fourteen years, and here also he closed 
his dramatic career in 1871. The stage has since vibrated to 
the tread of many a great tragedian and comedian. 

The social proclivities of " the City of Brotherly Love " were 
early evinced, among other ways, by the fact that the first 
Masonic lodge in America flourished here. From a very 
humble beginning, the fraternity has grown to an astonishing 
strength, and it now occupies one of the most imposing mod- 
ern buildings in the world. 

22. The Temple, which was dedicated in 1873, is a 
specimen of the pure Norman type of architecture, notably 
elaborate and bold, and is principally of Cape Ann and Fox 
Island granite. The grand tower is elevated 250 feet, resting 
upon foundations 31 feet below the sidewalk. The porch, or 
doorway, is one of the most elaborate works of the kind extant. 
In its interior arrangement the Temple aims to present a per- 
petual object-lesson, illustrating in their purity the several 



PHILADELPHIA. 191 

types of architecture. The buildiug forms the headquarters 
of the Grand Lodge of Pennsylvania, and of the capitular 
and Templar orders of Freemasonry within the jurisdiction. 

Philadelphia has justly earned the title of "the City of 
Homes," and it can hardly be expected that club-life should 
develop to the same extent that it has in New York and other 
cities ; but of late years the tendency has grown in a remarkable 
degree, and the 

23. Union League, the Philadelphia, Rittenhouse and 
Art Clubs are notable institutions of their kind. The first 
of these, a view of which is shown, inhabits one of the finest of 
modern club-houses; and membership in it is so much prized 
that applicants are content to wait sometimes for years for 
vacancies to occur. The League was originally a political 
organization, having its birth at the outbreak of the Rebellion. 
Some idea of the character of its work may be had when it is 
known that it sent into the field nine regiments, two battalions 
and a troop of cavalry, all armed and equipped at the expense 
of the club. Now the League's functions are almost purely 
social, and it entertains with a degree of liberality which is 
only equaled by that which it displayed when its energies 
were directed to the preservation of the Union. 

The need for such aid to the Government has long ceased 
to exist; but the State supports instead, in a high condition of 
discipline, a body of citizen soldiery, ready to respond to its 
call for the preservation of the public peace and order. The 
nucleus of what is now the 

24. First Regiment, National Guard of Pennsylvania, 
was an organization of Home Guards, known as "the Gray 
Reserves." The First is one of the "crack" regiments of the 
State; and its armory, on Broad Street, is a building entirely 
worthy of its tenant. As you see, it is a castellated Gothic 



192 PHILADELPHIA. 

structure of brick and stone, and is 140 by 222 feet. The 
towers flanking the entrance are 120 feet high, and the inte- 
rior arrangements comprise elaborately furnished apartments 
for officers and companies. The one-story portion seen in the 
rear is a magnificent drill-room, 139 by 155 feet, aflbrdiag fa- 
cilities for regimental drills, which are unsurpassed. The 
Third Regiment, the First City Troop and the Battalion 
State Fencibles also have fine armory buildings. 

Turning from these social and educational phases of the 
city's life, let us touch upon some purely practical. The com- 
mencement of the 

25. Post-office system really dates back to the times cf 
the Duke of York, in 1676, originating in the necessities of 
the Government ; but the first penny-post, as it was called 
(meaning the delivery of letters from the post-office to persons 
to whom they were addressed), began about 1753. Benjamin 
Franklin was one of the earliest of the postmasters-general ; 
and so excellent was his management that mails for New 
England were sent out once a week; and a letter could be sent 
to Boston and a reply received in three weeks instead of six, 
as formerly. The present stately granite structure, as we see it 
from the corner of Ninth and Chestnut Streets, was first occu- 
pied in 1884, and cost the Government, including the site, fur- 
niture, etc., about eight million dollars. Though not quite so 
large as the Chicago post-office, this building is admitted to be 
the most complete, costly and convenient to the public of any 
in the country. It fronts 425 feet on Ninth Street, 175 feet 
on Chestnut and Market Streets; and its total square feet of 
area is 67,121. In 1888 the financial transactions (receipts) of 
the Philadelphia Post-office aggregated 86,395,854.53. Nearly 
one hundred and eight millions of stamps were sold; the 
postage on newspapers, etc., representing 8,909,236 pounds, 
and in value $89,092,36. The building shelters the United 



PHILADELPHIA. 193 

States courts, Pension Agent and Internal Revenue and other 
federal offices. 

Another building in Philadelphia belonging to the National 
Government is that in which the greater portion of the gold, 
silver and minor coin of the nation is made. There are 
three other mints, — one at New Orleans, one at Carson City, 
and the other at San Francisco, but their coinage is compar- 
atively insignificant, and all the dies are made in Philadel- 
phia. 

26. The Mint, which stands at the northwest corner of 
Chestnut and Juniper Streets, is a building of the Ionic 
order, the design being taken from the celebrated Grecian 
temple on the Ilyssus, near Athens. It was finished in 1833, 
but, as may readily be imagined, the building, though several 
times enlarged, long ago became too small. 

At times the pressure of business becomes so great that sil- 
ver and gold bullion, amounting to millions of dollars, are 
stored in the open corridors. Congress, however, in 1888, rec- 
ognized the needs of the institution, and appropriated a quarter 
of a million for improvements and enlargement. The Phila- 
delphia Mint has a world-wide reputation for the marvellous 
accuracy of its work. The first gold received from California 
was deposited here in 1848, having been brought by the 
Panama route. There is also a museum connected with the 
Mint, containing a fine collection of national coins, as well as 
many rare pieces, both ancient and modern. 

27. The Custom- House. — Several blocks farther down 
Chestnut Street is another government institution, also a Greek 
temple, the seat of customs. The first federal building used 
for a custom-house in the city was situated at Second and Dock 
Streets, and opened in 1819, continuing in service until 1845, 
when, upon the failure of the United States Bank, the Govern- 



194 PHILADELPHIA, 

ment purchased the handsome white marble building erected 
for that institution, and it has been the Custom-House ever 
since. But it must not be supposed that even this large 
structure is sufficient for the accommodation of the large busi- 
ness of the office. lu 1871 a large five-story fire-proof build- 
ing was erected on Second Street above Walnut, and is now 
occupied by the Appraisers' offices. 

Turning now to matters of municipal rather than national 
interest, we have before us a view of the 

28. Old Merchants' Exchange, once the business center 
of the city. Jn the early part of the century the old London 
Coffee-House and the City Tavern served instead of such an 
institution as this, but this more pretentious gathering-place 
was the natural outgrowth of the needs of the day. The 
building was completed in 1834, and was in its time consid- 
ered the most beautiful edifice in the city. It is constructed 
of Pennsylvania marble, in the shape of a parallelogram, the 
eastern front (at Walnut and Dock Streets) presenting a semi- 
circular portico, with eight Corinthian columns, above which 
rises a lantern 40 feet above the roof, pierced with windows 
and modeled after a monument at Athens called " the Lantern 
of Demosthenes." It is now occupied mainly for office pur- 
poses, the Exchange as an active institution having long ago 
fallen into disuse. 

One cause of this decay may have been the tendency of 
merchants euo-ao-ed in the same line of trade to associate them- 
selves together for their mutual advantage and protection. 
Such was the case with the shipping-merchants, and the 
Maritime Exchange is to-day one of the strongest concerns of 
the kind in Philadelphia, representing, to a certain extent, the 
magnitude of the city's commerce. In her maritime connec- 
tions Penn's city has ever been famous throughout the world, 
and many views might be given, and much might be said in 



PHILADELPHIA. 195 

way of explanation, of the many points of interest in the 
port. Two only can be considered. The view before you 
represents a great shipping-point in the southern section of 
the city, — 

2g. Point Breeze. — Near by, at Girard Point, are the 
great grain-elevators of the Pennsylvania Railroad Company, 
while at Point Breeze, on the Schuylkill River, just above its 
mouth, are a dozen or more oil-refineries, which give employ- 
ment to nearly four thousand hands, and send out every year 
over $10,000,000 worth of refined petroleum. For this pur- 
pose a large fleet of vessels is constantly employed, shipments 
being made direct to all parts of the world. 

In the northeastern section of the city are centered the 
great ship-building interests, which by their magnitude and 
importance have justly earned for the Delaware its title of 
"the Clyde of America." The point is one of 

30. The Ship-yards of the Wm. Cramp & Son's 

Ship and Engine Building Co., and the incident the launch of 
two of the vessels built for the U. S. Navy, — the gunboat 
Yorktown, and the death-dealing dynamite cruiser Vesuvius. 
This firm enjoys the distinction of having built the only trans- 
Atlantic steamers now sailing under the American flag. At 
its yards were built the famous armed frigate New Ironsides, 
which rendered such eflective service in Charleston Harbor, 
besides many other vessels for the Government during the 
Rebellion, war-ships for Russia, and an almost countless fleet 
for the country's merchant marine. The large share they 
have taken in the building of the " New Navy" shows that 
the mantle of the great founder of the firm has fallen worthily 
upon the five sons who now carry on the work. Their recent 
achievement has been the building of the fastest battle-ships 
afloat. 



196 PHILADELPHIA. 

31. The Drexel Building. — With the erection of the 
Drexel Building at Fifth and Chestnut Streets, and which we 
see before us, a new era in building was begun in Philadelphia ; 
and while this sort of thing has ceased to be a novelty, the na- 
tives point to this white marble palace with honest pride as the 
finest structure of its class in the country. It stands upon the 
site of the old Post-office and other historic buildings, and ad- 
joins the old U. S. Bank building, now occupied as the Custom- 
House. Fronting 14!2 feet on Chestnut Street, it has a 
depth to Library Street of 220 feet, and is ten stories iu height, 
rising 135 feet from the pavement. It has over 400 rooms, 
and contains over 200,000 square feet of floor space. The 
fact that two letter-carriers are assigned to duty in the build- 
ing, when one usually covers several blocks in the residence 
portions of the city, will convey some idea of the community 
of lawyers, bankers and other business-men sheltered within 
its towering walls. Besides the great banking-house of 
Drexel & Co., the Philadelphia Stock Exchange, the Board 
of Trade and the Hirst Law Library have splendid apart- 
ments here. 

The closest ties of friendship and of business unite the 
owner of this great building with the philanthropic and public- 
spirited journalist, George W. Childs, proprietor of Philadel- 
phia's leading daily. 

32. The Public Ledger. — This building is a handsome 
l)rownstone structure, and for many years after its completion, 
in 1867, was the show building of the town, and is still visited 
every day by tourists. Its architect was the late John Mc- 
Arthur, since better known as the designer of the City Hall ; 
and its formal opening was made the occasion for a public 
expression of the high regard iu which the Ledger and its 
owner were held. A journal which has the almost absolute 
confidence of its readers for the accuracy of its statements, 



PHILADELPHIA. 197 

which never panders to the tastes of scandal-lovers, which 
neither puffs advertisers nor ignores non-advertisers, and 
which is admitted to be the most impartially independent 
paper in this age of independent journalism, is an institution 
of which the city has every reason to be proud. 

Of the Ledger's proprietor himself, all the world knows 
of his public spirit and munificent liberality, but of the count- 
less good deeds which he has done in private no one in this 
world will ever know the half. Mr. Childs counts among his 
intimates the great men of his time, and in his 

33. Office in the Ledger Building he has entertained 
more distinguished people — statesmen, soldiers, literati, royal 
personages, etc. — than have ever been received by any other 
single private individual in America. The room is a veritable 
museum, containing portraits of many of his illustrious visi- 
tors and friends, besides numerous rare historical relics, works 
of art, souvenirs, etc., which have been brought to him by 
grateful and appreciative admirers. Particular prominence 
is given to reminders of the exceptional friendship which 
existed between Mr. Childs and General Grant, while the tick- 
ing of numerous quaint and curious clocks reminds the visitor 
of a personal hobby for which the publisher is somewhat noted. 

No doubt if William Peun were engaged to-day in laying 
out the streets of his city, he would provide for us the spacious 
avenues which the experience of the day requires, and which 
the new cities of our country have adopted, profiting by the 
lessons which two centuries of use have taught them. Some 
of the thoroughfares in " Old Philadelphia" may seem dark 
and narrow, but in contemplating them we should remember 
how vastly superior their regularity and straightness make 
them to the crooked streets of Boston or those of the lower 
part of New York. These features more than atone for their 
faults, and in the case of the busy avenue before us, 



198 PHILADELPHIA. 

34. Chestnut Street, its very narrowness serves to 
increase the imposing effect of its fine public buildings and 
places of business. This is the street of fashionable stores, and 
hence the fashionable promenade. At night the thoroughfare 
is literally ablaze with light throughout its length, east of the 
Schuylkill, an electric illumination which is probably 
unequaled upon any other street in the country. 

Parallel with Chestnut Street is the avenue upon which the 
principal wholesale business of the city is concentrated. 
Originally the High Street of the old city, 

35. Market Street is the dividing-line of the system of 
street numbers, one hundred numbers being assigned to each 
block north and south respectively, the count beginning at 
Market Street. In the view before us we see to the left the 
superb new block of modern wholesale houses erected by the 
trustees of the Girard Estate, a substantial improvement over 
the antique row which they displaced. Under the spur of this 
example many other large and handsome business structures 
have been erected in the immediate vicinity. The big white 
wholesale house to the left, and the building in the distance 
surmounted by a square clock-tower, are two of the establish- 
ments of President Harrison's Postmaster-General, Mr. Wana- 
maker. It is hardly necessary to explain further that the 
overtowering structure at the end is the new City Hall. 

Occupying a position about midway between the two rivers, 

36. Broad Street, which takes the place of Four- 
teenth in the regular succession of north and south streets, 
stretches from League Island on the south to the northern 
boundary of the city, and is said to be one of the longest city 
streets of the world. Its great length, its width of 113 feet, 
and its admirable pavement of Belgian blocks and asphaltum, 
make it above all othei's the thoroughfare for all great public 



PHILADELPHIA. 199 

pageants. Hardly any car-tracks are allowed to mar its 
smooth surface, and it has steadily improved until it now is 
well lined for the greater part of its length with beautiful 
churches, fine public institutions, and some of the most luxu- 
rious private residences which the city boasts. The point of 
view before you affords a striking example of its general 
features. The three churches are the leading ones of their 
respective denominations, the Methodist on the left and the 
Baptist and Lutheran on the right. The fourth corner of 
Arch Street is occupied by a leading banking institution. 
Farther in the distance, to the left, we see another aspect of 
the Masonic Temple, outlined in part against the high marble 
pile of which we must take a nearer view. 

When Penn laid out the city a square at the intersection of 
these two great streets was set apart for use as a future site of 

37. Municipal Buildings ; but he could hardly 
have foreseen the magnificent provision which would in time 
be made for the needs of the metropolis of the commonwealth 
which he founded. To bring the huge structure to its present 
condition required eighteen years of work and fifteen millions 
of money. To-day it is the largest municipal building in the 
world, and its tower when completed will be the highest, 535 
feet. The latter was planned to be the highest artificial 
structure, but the height of the Washington Monument was 
increased subsequent to the adoption of this plan, so as to 
overtop it. The City Hall is built in the form of a hollow 
square, its largest dimensions being 486* feet from north to 
south, and 470 feet from east to west, and covers nearly 4 J 
acres. It will have 520 rooms, having a floor space of 14J 
acres ; and accommodations will not only be provided for all 
the municipal departments, but for the State and military as 
well. 



200 PHILADELPUIA. 

A block south of the City Hall, on Broad Street below 
Chestnut, stands one of the representative hotels of the city, 

38. The Lafayette. — There are others as large, but 
none more complete in every appointment. The hotel occupies 
the site of another hostelry, which in the earlier part of this 
half of the century was equally famous for its cuisine and for 
the high grade of guests. La Pierre was then the resort of 
those who sought the quiet and repose of a part of the city 
not disturbed by the turmoil of trade. The corner building 
was formerly the Academy of Natural Sciences, but subsequent 
to the removal of that institution to its new quarters, in 1876, 
the Hotel Lafayette was opened there. It was so successful 
that La Pierre property was added, and the two buildings 
entirely rebuilt so as to fit them for modern hotel require- 
ments. At the present time it occupies what is rapidly 
becoming the business centre of the city, being but two 
blocks from the 

39. Broad Street Station, the principal passenger 
terminal of the Pennsylvania Railroad, and of which we 
present a view. 

This handsome structure forms the rather unique method 
by which this great railway corporation obtains entrance to 
the business centre. It formerly had its principal station west 
of the Schuylkill River, but the demands of its enormous 
traffic required something better. The properties on the south 
side of Filbert Street, from the Schuylkill to Broad Street, a 
distance of about a mile, were purchased, and a viaduct of 
brick nuisonry brought this vast amount of passenger traffic to 
the City Hall. It is in effect a continuous bridge, and the 
constantly moving trains — about 250 day — neither darken 
the streets nor materially interfere with public comfort. 
Though eight ])arallel tracks are provided, the urgent need of 



PHILADELPHIA. *20l 

additional space is felt, and the widening of the entire struc- 
ture is probably only a matter of time. 

This striking picture gives some idea of how this great ele- 
vated railway looks from above. We are facing east, and see 
beneath the big shed-like structures the bustle incident to the 
arriving and departing trains. That to the right is the famous 

40. "New York and Chicago Limited," the run- 
ning of which was an unprecedented feat in American rail- 
roading, and was due to the enterprise of the Pennsylvania 
Railroad Company. This train is composed exclusively of 
Pullman cars of the most modern type, and the time made 
between the two points is the fastest attempted by any regular 
line. When the idea was first carried into effect the Company 
refunded to passengers the extra fare charged, in case the 
schedule time of twenty-four hours was not made; but the feat 
is now accomplished with such regularity that such a guaran- 
tee is not required by the travelling public. 

As Philadelphia is world-famous as a center of medical edu- 
cation, so also is it well knowm for its thoroughly equipped pub- 
lic hospitals. Though the one before us is not the first in order 
of establishment, it is a model of modern institutions of the 
kind. 

41. The German Hospital was founded principally 
through the efforts of citizens of German birth, in 1860, the 
present site being occupied as recently as October, 1872. Much 
of its present magnificent endowment is due to the public spirit 
and munificence of John D. Lankenau, for many years the 
President of the Corporation. Mr. Lankenau not only pre- 
sented to the hospital the greater portion of the ground 
now occupied, but built for it an entire new wing, with boiler- 
house, laundry and other conveniences, and accommodations 
for 100 additional patients ; and more recently the splendid 



202* PHILADELPHIA. 

new building on the western end of the lot — the Mary J. 
Drexel Home — in honor of his wife. This is intended as a 
home for the aged, an orphan asylum, and as a training- 
school for the Lutheran order of Deaconesses which has the 
internal management of the hospital. 

In close proximity to the German Hospital, which in 
the old times was known as Cherry Hill, is 

42. The Eastern Penitentiary. This site has been 
occupied as a prison for criminals from the eastern part of the 
State since 1829, and now shelters, for the public good, a far 
greater number than that for which its accommodations were 
intended. For this reason its system of separate confinement 
is only partially carried into practice, though its managers 
still hold as tenaciously as ever to the theory. The grounds 
comprise eleven acres, and the building is a massive qastellated 
structure of granite, its corner towers being 65 feet high. 
From the central building or observatory, from which the cell 
corridors radiate, the guards can overlook all the cells and 
yards so that instant detection may follow any attempt to es- 
cape. So thorough is the system that escapes from this insti- 
tution are practically unknown. The prison has a library of 
6,000 volumes, and useful trades are taught the convicts, so 
that on their release they have no excuse not to lead honest 
lives. 

A visit to Philadelphia would be indeed incomplete without 
a sight of her incomparable Park — the largest in America. 
Aside from its function as the people's pleasure-ground, Fair- 
mount Park has a use which is purely practical ; namely, the 
preservation of the city's water supply. Lining both sides of 
the Schuylkill, it pushes back from dangerous proximity the 
polluting influences of trade and manufactures. We see here 
the parent, if we may use the figure, of the present water supply 
system. 



PHILADELPHIA. 203 

43. These Water-Works were begun in 1812, at 
which time the site had restored to it the ancient name of 
Fairmount. Its steam pump was then able to raise 1,800,000 
gallons per day into the reservoir, seen over the top of the 
hill, a height of 102 feet above low Avater. At a later date 
this was replaced by heavy wooden breast-wheels, and still 
later by modern turbines, which to-day have a pumping 
capacity (except in times of extreme drought) of 30,000,000 
gallons every twenty-four hours. The buildings are of an 
antique pattern, and the spot has many historic associations. 

Contrasted with this interesting relic of the past is the 
modern 

44. Pumping- Station on the east bank of the Schuyl- 
kill River, between the Girard Avenue Bridge and that 
of the Pennsylvania Railroad Company's New York Division. 
Originally the outcome of a . dispute between the old city 
corporation and the districts of Spring Garden and Northern 
Liberties, as to water rates, the Spring Garden Pumping- 
Station is now the most important of the several sources of 
distribution. The original buildings are those in the rear, at 
the end of the fore bay, and are constructed in the Egyptian 
style of architecture. The new building in the foreground 
contains two pumps, with a combined capacity of 30,000,000 
gallons a day ; while one of the older engines — "Jumbo," the 
engineers call it — alone lifts an average of 22,000,000 gallons 
a day. The total capacity of the works at present is 90,000,- 
000 gallons a day. The winding road to the right connects 
the famous river-road upon which w^e have been standing 
with the Girard Avenue Bridge. 

45. Girard Avenue is one of the principal uptown 
streets, a magnificent thoroughfare from 80 to 120 feet wide, 
extending across the city from east to west. It crosses the 



204 PHILADELPHIA. 

Schuylkill, at very nearly its full width, by a bridge which is 
said to be one of the finest in the world, and which is, without 
doubt, wider than any bridge in America or Europe. This 
handsome structure was completed in 1874, having cost 
$1,405,000, and replaced a wooden bridge, which had fallen 
into such a dangerous condition that the Grand Jury indicted 
the Councils of the city for permitting it to remain open to 
travel. The view w^hich we give is from the western end, 
looking toward " Brewery-town," w'here the great beer-brew- 
ing interests of the city are centered. 

Turning short around to the right, we find ourselves at the 
entrance to the 

46. Zoological Garden. — Philadelphia claims to have 
the " best " in several of her institutions, but no claim is 
more unquestioned than her boast of possessing the finest 
zoological collection in America. The Garden occupies a 
tract of Park property 33 acres in extent, which is laid out in 
an exceptionally attractive manner, with rustic bridges, 
shaded walks, a pond for water-fowl, flower-beds, etc. The 
buildings are substantially built and planned with special 
view to the care of the particular animals wdiich are sheltered 
in them. The striking group in bronze in the foreground, 
representing " The Dying Lioness," is the work of John J. 
Boyle, the talented American sculptor, and was placed in its 
present position by the Fairmount Park Art Association. 

47. The Lion. — Turning from this sculptured representa- 
tion of the king of the animal kingdom, let us go with the little 
ones to the carnivora house, where we shall see a magnificent 
specimen of the African lion as he appears in the flesh. This 
disrnified-lookiuf!: beast was one of the " first settlers " in the Gar- 
den, and many thousands of children have stood and watched 
him as we see him here. If we had time, it would be pleasant 



PHILADELPHIA. 205 

to roam over the Garden with our young companions. We 
should go, perhaps, to the elephant house, and watch the 
clumsy gambles of those huge pachyderms as they take their 
daily bath ; or with the keepers as they feed the sea-lions, to 
admire the astonishing agility those queer beasts show as they 
catch their food before it touches the water. But there is no 
time for that expedition now. Before leaving, however, the 
antiquarian will find much to interest him in the 

48. Mansion known as Solitude, built in 1785 by John 
Peun, a son of Thomas, one of the Proprietors of the Province. 
It is now used for office purposes, but the ruthless hand of mod- 
ern improvement has but lightly touched it. The entire tract 
now included within the boundaries of the Garden constituted 
the country-seat of Penii, the choice of the site and the name 
he gave to it indicating the natural bent of his mind. He 
only occupied it a few years, for in 1789 he went back to 
England. One work he did, however, which is much to his 
credit, was the planting of the splendid trees which covered 
the estate. 

With a glance at another portion of this wonderful Park, 
our visit to the Quaker City will be completed. 

49. The Wissahickon, for it is upon this romantic stream 
that we are gazing, is too well known for its picturesque char- 
acter to make any attempt at description necessary. The 
Park liues have been continued up its banks a distance of 
about six miles from the mouth, thus taking in a narrow strip 
of land upon which are concentrated a variety of natural 
beauties which it would be difficult to excel. Every step of 
the way opens new vistas of beauty to the view, and the ever- 
changing combination of rock and stream and foliage has, 
been an unfailing inspiration for the painter and poet. Pun- 
ning through a hilly country, the stream has cut for its path 



206 PHILADELPHIA. 

a deep ravine, the banks in some places being wildly precipi- 
tous, and in others sloping gently to the water's edge. 

50. So also the stream, bending itself as it were to the pur- 
poses of the picturesque, now tumbles tumultuously over a 
rocky bed, now flows placidly in long stretches under green 
boughs, the reflections repeating the exquisite forms of leaf and 
branch. RIany interesting legends and traditions linger about 
the stream, the very names of its bridges and walks benring 
the mementoes of almost forgotten stories. The Monastery 
and the Indian Kock, for instance, have suggested themes for 
more than one poet and novelist, so that we can not dwell 
upon them here. As one w^anders for hours through the secluded 
walks of this sylvan retreat, it is hard to realize that the busy 
marts of trade are so close at hand. May it be many, many 
years before the noisy intrusion of human industry breaks in 
upon the wild solitude of the Wissahickon ! We leave its 
restful delights with the greater regret because our visit to the 
Quaker City is at an end. 



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